Decades past, my school buddies and I went on a semestral break spree to Boracay. There was no electricity then and we camped on the white beach amid topless Europeans. We explored the island on foot and met some Atis somewhere near the mangroves. The Atis are the Negrito ethnic group of the Visayas and the original inhabitants of Boracay and Panay. They now live on the fringes of the island.
The legend
The legend goes that 10 Bornean datus led by Datu Puti arrived in Panay in the 13th century aboard a flotilla of balangays after escaping from an abusive ruler in their homeland. They were met by a certain King Marikudo of the Atis who, at first, was reluctant but later accepted a negotiation wherein they would sell their lowlands to the Borneans in exchange for a golden salakot. Just like the Atis of today, they moved to the hinterlands while the Bornean datus and their families populated Panay and the rest of the country. The story of “Barter of Panay,” which has been passed on through oral tradition, is now considered an intangible cultural heritage.
Ati-atihan
This legendary pact inspired the staging of Ati-atihan which literally means to imitate the Atis. The street parade is known for a way of dancing called “sadsad” which is performed to the tune of loud, rhythmic drums and shouts of “Hala Bira!” and “Viva Sto. Niño!” One cannot help but sway and do the “sadsad” with wild abandon.
Considered the “Mother of Philippine Festivals,” Ati-atihan in Kalibo, Aklan has spawned other festivals in other parts of Aklan, Cebu, and Iloilo. What makes the Kalibo Ati-atihan distinctive is that it is participative and non-commercialized. I was told that the earlier celebrations of Ati-atihan were participated by real Atis. Now, the dancers smear their faces and bodies with black soot. Over time, the festival has transformed into something like the Mardi Gras of Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans. The performances are grouped into many categories and there is a prize for best performance and costume.
Philippine Revolution
Aklan also played a role in the Philippine Revolution. The Aklan Freedom Shrine was built to honor the 19 martyrs of Aklan/Capiz who were executed for advancing the cause of the Katipunan. Panay originally represented Visayas in one of the stars in the Philippine flag.
Cultural contributions
On the cultural scene, Aklan is reviving the traditional piña weaving industry. At the forefront of this revival is visual artist and entrepreneur Anne India de la Cruz Legaspi. We visited her at Arte Kalye Sa El Porvenir where you can find weaving looms and several paintings.
India is an Aklanon artist and has been a torchbearer for Aklan’s weaving tradition. She is known for developing the piña seda which is a textile blend of pure piña mixed with silk. It is considered an affordable version of pure Liniwan piña fabric.
From the piña weaving house, we went to Maning’s Farm to view a unique museum on sword making. It features talibong, a utilitarian sword used as a weapon and a tool. I have a personal interest because the talibong is one of the weapons used in pekiti tersia, a Filipino martial art. Curiously, the talibong museum was curated by Soviet de la Cruz, brother of Anne India. Soviet, just like his sister, is a self-taught artist. He has various paintings in canvas and illustrations. He promotes Akeanon culture by documenting living traditions.
Culasi and Tibiao, Antique
From Aklan, we moved southward to Antique. On our way to San Jose, we stopped at a roadside blacksmith workshop in Caridad, Culasi. Nonoy, the panday, willingly demonstrated and explained the process of fabricating knives. He is known as “binangon” bladesmith. The knives have individual names such as lantip, lugud, sanggut. At the coastal town of Culasi, we bought pinindang, pinakas and other kinds of dried fish. Aside from being the home of the majestic Mount Madja-as, the highest peak in Panay, Culasi is also the jump-off point to Mararison Island. This island, with its pristine beaches and superb diving, is one of the flagship tourist destinations of Antique.
Next town was Tibiao, an eco-adventure destination. In the 1990s, Tibiao River was known for river kayaking. Aside from kayaking, resorts such as Calawag offer tubing, fish spa and kawa hot bath. Trekking is also possible in Bugtung Bato and other areas.
San Jose, Hamtic, and Anini-y, Antique
We finally arrived at San Jose de Buenaventura, Antique’s capital and were billeted at Xela Hotel. A short ride from the hotel was the Evelio Javier Freedom Park which is just in front of the Antique Provincial Capitol. In the vicinity is San Jose Cathedral. During our walk, we discovered a heritage house which was open to the public. The Gella-Azurin house is one of the few, if not the only surviving “balay na bato” in Antique.
Further south is the oldest town in Antique, Hamtic, which was named after big black ants. It was formerly called Antique, after which the province was named after. Oral history tells us that the 10 Bornean datus landed in Barangay Malandog. To commemorate this landing, statues of the datus were constructed. Other interesting sites include Sta. Maria Parish Church and the mortuary chapel at Hamtic Cemetery.
The last town and southernmost point of Antique is Anini-y.We often make church stops but Anini-y was different. Unlike many coastal churches made of crushed corals, you can actually see the corals in an almost whole form. Even the Anini-y Cemetery has that tropical lòok with coconut trees around.
Iloilo
Crossing to Iloilo, church hopping becomes more engrossing. San Joaquin Church depicts bas relief of Battle of Tetuan in Morocco on its pediment. San Joaquin Campo Santo is a National Cultural Treasure. Miag-ao Church is a World Heritage Site. Jaro Cathedral is the seat of the Catholic Church in Iloilo. Iloilo has so much to offer with its heritage houses, museums, and excellent cuisine.
Landing in Kalibo for Ati-atihan and exiting in Iloilo for Dinagyang would have been a grand tour but it needs time and preparation. Panay’s western road is filled with surprises from beaches to churches, even cemeteries. Most of all, its role in Philippine history from the Bornean datus to the Panay revolutionaries should never be forgotten. All of these sandwiched between two festivals make the Panay western road the Festive Road.
Thank you Tourism Promotions Board, Arte Kalye Sa Porvenir and Las Islas Travel and Tours (+63) 999-4300133; landline (+6336) 641-6428; www.lasislas.ph) for the support.
All photos by the author except San Joaquin Campo Santo by Alex Moscoso Española.
JP Ordoña (Manilakad) leads Manilakad Walks in Intramuros, Binondo, Quiapo and more. Let him guide you to several walking destinations in Manila. Manilakad (Jing Ordoña) can be reached on Facebook Messenger or through text at 0916-3597888 and Viber (George Ordona) at 0960-6975930.