Swimming with a million sardines in Moalboal

Photo from Moalboal Eco Lodge.

Ever fancied being hugged by a million sardines in the vastness of the ocean? If so, then experiencing a sardine run should be in your bucket list of things to do in your next trip.

A sardine run is a term used to describe a natural phenomenon where large numbers of sardines swim together in groups. This is actually the fishes’ feeding time, munching on planktons in the surface of the water. 

The fishes assemble in a large group (as many as a million, by some estimates), which is enough to block the sun, if you happen to be viewing the spectacle from below.

And you can—enjoy this awesome experience, that is. Moalboal, a town in Cebu, has recently become a diving hotspot for exactly this reason. 

In fact, the sardine run in Moalboal is often mentioned as one of the best sardine runs in the world. (Individuals who are well-versed with sardine runs often point to the phenomenon in South Africa as the best).

Sardine is actually the name of several kinds of small fishes which belong to the herring family. They are named after Sardinia, an island in the Mediterranean.

Photo from weseektravel.com

It’s in Panagsama Beach (located on the West Coast of Cebu, about three hours from Cebu City), where the sardines hang out. Locals say it wasn’t until a decade ago or so that the fishes started to appear. Thankfully, they understand the value these fishes bring as tourist draw. This is why local officials have banned commercial fishing in the area, only allowing residents to fish only for their families.

Because the sardines often appear just 30 meters off the coast, it’s pretty easy to spot them, making them very accessible to tourists. This means the activity is actually free of charge, though there are individuals offering their services as guides. The only things tourist would need to shell out money for are rental for snorkeling or scuba diving gear (if they want).

Aside from sardines, tourists often also spot mandarin fish, blue-ringed octopuses, frog fish, and turtles.

Despite the increase in popularity in recent years, it’s impressive how the small town has retained its chill, laid-back charm. There are several dive shops in the area, small food houses, and people selling pasalubong, but the area is still relatively quaint, which makes it more appealing for travelers who want a respite from their busy lives in the city.

The sardine run happens every single day of the year. And the best part about it is that it’s a completely ethical and natural activity. Locals do not feed the fishes. They let them be. Instead, they’re there to make sure the sardines are protected and the waters clean so the fishes keep coming back for many more years to come.

Kenneth M. del Rosario
Kenneth has been writing for the Philippine Daily Inquirer for more than 17 years, covering travel, food, motoring, technology, real estate, and business, among others.