By Reggie Aspiras
For the past 20 years, sharing my discoveries with you has been one of the things I love to do on Kitchen Rescue. Here are more of my finds:
Mirèio is one of the most picturesque restaurants in the metro, situated on the ninth floor of the Raffles Makati. It has become my favorite place to hold meetings of late, not just for the view but for the dishes whipped up by my dear friend, German chef Béla Klaus Rieck, who I first met when he was the executive chef of Swissotel Nankai in Osaka, Japan.
Now the executive chef of Raffles Makati, he creates dishes that linger in my mind, like the Sous Vide Prawns with Fresh Tomato, Avocado and Sherry Vinaigrette, that was so fresh and summery.
I am in love with his Tartare de Boeuf au Caviar. The play of flavors of the decadent dish is divine.
He once prepared a Tasmanian grilled salmon on a garden fresh green leaf risotto for me. I still recall how it tastes.
Béla’s desserts are equally satisfying. The Mango Tarte Tatin with Tonka Bean Ice Cream and the Dark Chocolate Feast, a mix of Mousse, Ice Truffle Cake and Hazelnut Crunch, are all simply delicious. (Visit Mirèio and request for Chef Béla’s “lunch menu.” For reservations, call tel. 7795-1840.)
Dino eggs
Asin tibuok is one of the rarest salts in the world, and is found only in the Philippines.
This rare salt’s ancient production method dates back to precolonial times. The art is kept alive by a select few in Bohol. I was told that only one family continues to make it, in limited quantities.
Tibuok can only be produced six months of the year, as the salinity changes with the season, from dry to wet. The process of making it is also long and arduous.
It begins with gathering and soaking coconut husks in fresh seawater. The soaked husks are cut into smaller pieces and left in the sun to dry. The husks are then burned using specific varieties of wood. This is done for days, with care given to ensure that the fire does not die. A bamboo filter is then filled with the ashes, through which salt water passes through a funnel.
The salt water extracted is now a brine called tasik. It is collected then cooked in clay pots made especially for this purpose. It is a long process that lasts three hours.
More tasik is poured into the pots, as needed, as the brine evaporates.
When the clay pops, and the bottom of the pot cracks to expose the salt, the tibuok is done. It is from the visual of the cracked pot with the ball of salt resting on top of it that it gets the name “dinosaur egg.”
Tibuok gives character to any dish. The fine salt is fantastic, grated (with a microplane grater) over garlic rice, pasta, on steaks, seafood—let your imagination run wild.
In taste, the so-called unbroken, whole or dinosaur egg salt belongs to a class of its own. The best way I’d describe it is “seasoned” salt, as it isn’t just salt, nor just salty. In fact, it tastes almost like wine, with complex flavor undertones.
Tibuok has a light tinge of sweetness and smokiness to it. There’s even a faint fruitiness detected in the finish. (Order through @mine.ph.bohol on Instagram.)
Batangas ‘pupor’
From Bohol, let me take your tastebuds to Batangas.
I have professed time and again that one of my favorite chicharones is the Batangas pupor, masterfully made by chef Redd Agustin.
The cholesterol-laden treat is made with back fat, of 50-50 fat-to-skin ratio. It is cooked slowly in its own fat for about five to six hours, while the kawa is stirred endlessly. It is then dried under the sun for two days and fried two more times, before it is packed to be enjoyed.
This time, Chef Redd created a deadly combo of his pupor with homemade oven-dried boneless tinapa, slow-cooked in garlic, tomato and onions!
I like this over piping hot rice. Chef Redd also recommends it served as an accompaniment to crusty bread, and spooned over pasta such as penne or spaghetti, as is, or you can add cream and a squeeze of lemon, if you wish. (Tel. 0998-3858616.)
‘Barquillos’ and more
Let’s now travel to Iloilo for some of the tastiest barquillos varieties.
Don’t we all go back to our childhood with every bite of this crisp rolled wafer? The 5 Rolls—five-layer, five-time rolled—barquillos are not at all like the ones from my past.
The 5 Rolls is so thick, yet light, crisp and flaky. It is everything you love in a barquillo, only more satisfying!
There is also the ultra rich and tasty Goat’s Milk Barquillos by PJ’s. Love how delicate-tasting it is.
Another delight from Iloilo is the banana chips, evenly coated in caramel, sprinkled with sesame seeds—crunchy, nutty, with just the right sweetness to it. So good. (Christine Lim brings all sorts of Iloilo delicacies to Manila. For her product list, call tel. 0998-3858616.)
Note: Kitchen Rescue is Reggie Aspiras’ regular column in the Philippine Daily Inquirer. Follow the author @iamreggieaspiras on Instagram and Facebook; reggieaspiras.com.