By Din M. Villafuerte
Old Manila reopens its doors, two years after being shuttered due to the pandemic and its subsequent lockdowns.
The Peninsula Manila’s iconic restaurant introduces its new chef de cuisine Domenico Nicolino, as it picks up where it left off and welcomes patrons and those who are seeking distinct gastronomic affairs.
Nicolino brings his experience from around the world, having worked in some of the top restaurants and hotels in the United Kingdom, Australia, Malta, United States, Norway, Thailand, Estonia, Denmark, France, Azerbaijan, Germany and Abu Dhabi. The 38-year-old chef has trained under Michelin-starred chefs in Novara’s Tantris and Copenhagen’s Kong Hans Kaelder and created menus for the Emporio Armani Cafe in Munich.
“I sure want to do something special, something unique,” he said. “We want to do something that nobody is doing now in town.” He describes his technique as more modern.
Taking on a culinary career was unintentional for Nicolino. He was a biochemistry student until his love for skiing prompted him to leave university to become a ski instructor. He got a job in one of the restaurants in the Italian Alps just to pay for his expenses during off season. “And then I liked it and I started from there,” he said.
He acknowledged that though Italian cuisine is very good, he wanted to learn a lot of other different cuisines through the course of his career. “I believe French cuisine is one of the most difficult to make because it’s all about the product,” he explained.
Flavors and textures
Nicolino’s Old Manila menu was created based on some dishes which he thinks will suit the taste of local diners though it introduces different flavors and textures as well. “Everywhere I go I like to discover local food,” he told Lifestyle. “So maybe through here I can propose something, try to change minds. Because maybe some people have some stereotypes about Italian, about French. I want to change [that] a bit.”
Some highlights of Old Manila’s new chef de cuisine’s offerings include the US Beef Tenderloin Tartare with capers, shallots, cornichons, pickled mustard seeds, egg yolk jam and potato crisp; Prawns and Lemon Ricotta Ravioli with lobster bisque, citrus; and Iberico Presa with spiced carrot puree, boudin noir (the classic French take on blood sausage) and bordelaise.
Nicolino plans on modifying Old Manila’s spread every three months. “This makes the chef motivated, and the team also,” he explained. Having a regularly changing menu encourages customers to return to the restaurant as well. Isn’t it hard to decide on what to put in a menu each and every time? “No, for me actually not,” he said. “If you have the right product I can change the menu every day. The better the product, the less you need to touch it.”
Old Manila’s first Italian chef de cuisine is very particular about having fresh ingredients and has a farm-to-table approach. He grew up in Italy’s Piedmont region which meant being surrounded with fresh, organic produce. His family, he shared, grew their own vegetables and even made their own olive oil from 150-year-old trees. “Knowing the origins of every ingredient brings true joy to cooking and eating. I learned this from a very early age,” Nicolino said.
Many of the places he used to work in had their own farm. “So every day I would go to the garden, I picked up my own vegetables, it was very nice,” he added.
The Pen, as it happens, now has a garden for fresh produce, alongside the Rigodon Ballroom, according to director of public relations Mariano Garchitorena.
Old Manila is one of the two oldest restaurants at The Peninsula Manila, the other one being The Lobby. “Their names have not changed since we opened 46 years ago,” explained Garchitorena.
Though its menu has gone the route of European cuisine, Old Manila is also a showcase of Filipino art beginning with the large, framed photographs on its walls by photographer Paco Guerrero. By the restaurant’s entrance are crocuses by Kenneth Cobonpue, mirrors designed by Ito Kisch, and an accent table by fashion designer Pepito Albert.
Old Manila is at The Peninsula Manila, corner of Ayala and Makati Avenues; tel. no. 8887-2888